Falling for Aix-en-Provence
The grandeur of Aix-en-Provence slowly unfolded as the taxi rolled onto the famed thoroughfare, Cours Mirabeau which is lined with grand homes built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Directly ahead, the La Ratonde fountain rose out of the ground in all its glory, claiming its rightful position at the historic city’s center. More than 1,000 fountains welcome visitors into this city of sun-kissed yellow buildings, majestic town squares, and an intriguing maze of cobblestone streets, but it was clear that La Ratonde is the grandaddy.
As I exited the taxi and followed the winding cobblestone paths into the (mostly) pedestrian-only old town, I couldn’t help but feel a rush of exhilaration anticipating all the hidden gems hugging the nooks and crannies of these tightly woven streets. I smiled as I headed towards my hotel, in the current of stylish vacationers while the freshly baked aroma from bakeries beckoned to me. Aix was already getting under my skin.
The tourists looked comfortable and chic in their breezy linen tops and dresses, perfect for the warm and sunny weather. A few with stylish hats warding off the sun, adding a certain flair to their look. Their outfits matched the charm and elegance of Aix.
Aix, as it is lovingly called by its locals, is a small city in the south of France that dates back to 122 BC with the Roman ruins to prove it. In Aix en Provence, the architecture resembled a meticulously crafted tapestry, each building proudly donning the delicate wrinkles of its storied past.
Strolling along Cours Mirabeau
Aix has seen its fair share of noble and bourgeoisie visitors and residents. Today, it is still frequented by many of the upper echelons of French society. But it is just as welcoming to the average tourist.
Cours Mirabeau, Aix’s most famous thoroughfare, does not disappoint. It is mostly pedestrian only and lined with chic boutiques, cafés, and enticing bakeries. The occasional buzzing of a vehicle, probably on official business, interrupts the delightful sounds of shoppers. Each summer, artisans and other local vendors line the tree-covered street selling lavender oils, handmade soaps, Provençal tablecloths, and so much more.
This charming tree-lined street is where the likes of Paul Cezanne once strolled. He was known to meet up with one of his best friends at the café Les Deux Garcon.
Visiting the Atelier de Cezanne
A day after I arrived in Aix, I awoke to the brilliant Provençal sun peering through the blue-gray wooden shutters. I hastened to get dressed and gobbled down a light breakfast in my room. I had a special destination in mind – the former home of one of the greatest artists of all time, Paul Cezanne.
I’d heard that visiting his home and studio could be a transformative experience, a chance to step into the world that inspired his masterpieces. So, I made the 30-minute trek from the center of Old Town to Cezanne’s home, nestled in the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, I couldn’t deny a tinge of disappointment when the attendant said that all tickets for the day were sold out.
Nevertheless, I decided to make the most of the situation and enjoy the grounds surrounding the house. The lush green but slightly overgrown gardens offered a glimpse into the natural beauty that once captivated the artist himself.
While I couldn’t explore the interiors, I peered inside the home (as far as I could without a ticket), imagining the artist at work, brush in hand, capturing the essence of Provence on his canvas. It was a surreal experience to be so close to the place that had been his sanctuary, where this creative genius flourished. To visit Atelier de Cezanne, it is highly recommended that you buy your tickets online.
Sweet Madeleines
Eager to make up for the missed opportunity, I decided to treat myself to some delectable delights in the city that so inspired Cezanne.
At a nearby patisserie, Christophe Madeleines, I couldn’t resist trying the madeleines—delicate, shell-shaped buttery sponge cakes that practically melted in my mouth.
My favorites were the lemon and the chocolate chip madeleines, and I savored each bit of these delightful treats. They were the most sumptuous dessert I had tasted on that side of the Atlantic.
Aix-en-Provence Outdoor Markets
Aix is an outdoor market mecca. From Cours Mirabeau, you can walk along the charming cobbled streets, passing one-of-a-kind boutiques to find one of the best open-air markets in the main square in front of the parliament. This is where vendors gather as they have been doing for hundreds of years. Frequented by the locals who visit their favorite vendors, have a chat, then head home after spending a few hours in a local café. There is seemingly no rush.
Approaching the market, I got butterflies. I couldn’t wait to walk through the stalls of perfectly arranged tomatoes, blueberries and raspberries, and more variety of cheese and olives than I could count. The vegetables were all locally grown.
Final Thoughts
Aix-en-Provence charmed me with its history, its art, and its culinary delights. While I may not have stepped inside the home of the great artist, I realized that the spirit of Cezanne was alive and well in the city he called home.
This city where every street corner and café holds a story waiting to be discovered leaves a lasting impression. As I bid farewell to Aix-en-Provence, I immediately began plotting my return. Until then, I’ll carry a piece of Aix with me.
